Rescue Mission-Continued.

Despite having to deal with all the hassles of flying and crossing over international boards during the covid epidemic, our trip from Vancouver Canada to Roatan Honduras went well. All the people we encountered seemed to respect the protocols of mask wearing without much grumbling. We landed on Roatan after 12 hours of traveling and we were at the gates of Fantasy Island Marina by noon. I was excited about being back but also scared as to what we would find when I finally aboard our beloved Maiatla after being absent for 16 months.

Andy with Maiatla in the background shortly after getting back aboard.

Janet and I were last aboard in February of 2020. Jan and I flew home but planned to be back aboard by April, at which time we would complete our journey from Roatan Honduras, to Guatemala where a safe hurricane hole and shipyard awaited.  But unless you have been living under a rock for the past year and a half, you know that covid prevented our return putting our boat and home was in jeopardy. 

Under normal circumstances Roatan is a beautiful island and Fantasy Island is a great place to hang out. But these were not normal circumstances as the hurricane season was fast approaching and to make matters worse, the marina hotel closed its doors and shut off all the electricity and it would remain off for over 18 months.  The high humidity of the tropics rot boats from the inside out. To combat this, whenever we left Maiatla for the hurricane season I would leave big fans on timers to circulate the air as well as a dehumidifier to suck the moisture out of the boat preventing the growth of mold. I feared the mold as much as I did hurricanes.

Last year we watched helplessly as no less than three category 3 and 4 hurricanes passed by our island, one hurricane circled back to try and get a second crack at Maiatla, she survived but not unscathed. One nasty gale blew in from the west, whipping the anchorage into a frenzy with the waves tearing loose Maiatla’s dock. Maiatla was saved by some friends from south Africa, Tony and Robyn who had been keeping an eye on her for me. Still Maiatla suffered some good scrapes on the starboard side and stern.

As many who have boats in the hurricane belt know, my insurance was no good for damage or loss from a named or numbered storm so we were all on our own to cover any loss or damage. In our absence Tony and Robyn did there best to take care of Maiatla by replacing blown-away tarps and opening the boat up to air out, which helped. They also hired cleaners to wipe down the insides and when Tony checked the bilge, he found it to be full of an oily water. He then hired a mechanic to pump the boat and replace the failed bilge pumps. I’m sure without having our friends, Maiatla may have been lost.

Jackie giving Maiatla a much needed bath.

Upon my return, I was both relieved and shock when I saw Maiatla laying quietly along side the dock. She was quite a sight. Tarps placed over the boom were tattered, the deck was coved in dirt and debris from the nearby trees and her brightwork, the wood cap rails and window were peeling and nearly stripped of finish. The wood was burned and weathered grey form the tropical sun, the teak appearing as if suffering with some form of leprosy. I felt sick at what I saw but the worst was yet to come.

Over the following days I would discover that water had been leaking in several windows, the aft cabin ports in particular, rotting the teak paneling. The water continued on into the boat rotting out the port side of a transverse bulkhead. The water went on to the head where the countertop and shower wall was soak and rotten. I was able to push my hand right through the wall.

I quickly learned that my entire battery bank was shot and needed replacing before I could restore power to the boat.

After 18 months of not being run the engine scared me as I discovered that both alternators were seized up solid. Once freed I attempted to had crank the engine, thankfully she turned but not without giving me grief. As I would soon discover that one of the lifters was seized up solid and when I turned the engine over it bent a pushrod on number 3 cylinder. Luckily, I had three spar push rods in my supply of spare parts and after bending two more rods I managed to get the engine up and running.

Jackie taking a little snorkeling break in the deserted resort lagoon.

My sister Jackie and I spent two full weeks working full time cleaning and making repairs in an effort to get the boat sea worthy. (Well mostly seaworthy) which left us two weeks to sail the boat to Livingston Guatemala, cross the notorious bar and sail 22 miles up a jungle river to the Rio Dulce. Our return flights were already book out of Guatemala City so we had no time to waste.

Aside from the wood damage, metal parts of the boat had also succumbed to the corrosive effects of the tropics. While cleaning the hull one day, Jackie pulled on a lifeline only to have a turnbuckle securing it to the bow pulpit, snap off. Earlier that day I climbed up onto the mizzen boom to retrieve a halyard only to have a large stainless steel shackle snap in two, permitting the mizzen boom to fall, crashing right through my 100-watt solar panel mounted on the stern. All metal fittings would have to be inspected and were suspect.

When Janet I were last at Fantasy Island resort, the hotel and beaches were busy with vacationing tourist. A dozen or so cruising boats from all over the world were anchored in the lagoon and the docks were nearly full of more cruisers. It was a great place to be.  But now during covid the hotel was deserted and dark, the roads and walkways were covered in leaves and other debris, the pools were empty and debris filled. The only human activity was the presences of armed guards patrolling the property to prevent looting. With the people gone, the island’s flora and fauna had taken over. Hundreds of agouti, the large guineapig like creature were foraging through the underbrush and buildings.

Wild peacocks strutted about undeterred. Large iguanas roamed at will and capuchin monkeys claimed the hotel buildings, both inside and out as theirs. We had one particulate cute but mischievous monkey that liked to board Maiatla and it would attempt to steal whatever we had carelessly left about. Sunglasses and cameras were a favorite target. Robyn gave us a weapon with instructions to shoot if the monkey came within range.  The monkey quickly learned to flee at the first sight of the orange and blue squirt gun.  

During the two weeks prior to out intended departure date, Jackie and I treated ourselves to a little break and rented a car for the day with the express purpose of touring the west end of the island. The west End of Roatan is well known for its upscale homes and resorts located on a lagoon protected by a barrier reef of snorkeling renowned. 

We toured all drivable roads and some not so car friendly, in search of isolated swimming and snorkeling.  We even visited a rum distillery where we were treated to free samples, many samples in fact. From the hilltop distillery we had a clear view of the west end lagoon and offshore reefs. After seeing what lay before us, we decided that there was no way we could sail past here without stopping, even for just a day or two.

After two weeks it was time to head out. We planned on a short, day sail to the west end as a shakedown cruise. Anchor behind the reef for a couple of days then depart for the next island in the chain, Utila and again another day’s sail away.