With the majority of the work aboard Maiatla completed, we prepared to head up into lake Izabal for a few days for a shakedown cruise. All seemed to be going well with the exception of the boats steering. After replacing two long runs of coper hydraulic lines, I topped the fluid up only to discover a leak at the seal around the helm shaft.  Without new seals we would have to tolerate a constant drip of oil down the steering column. I would later learn that the steering pump, devoid of oil for probably over a year, baked in the tropical heat frying all the seals.

It was late afternoon by the time we got underway and to sail under the bridge and past the busy town of Fronteras. We had approximately 15 miles to go to our indented anchorage in Lake Izabal. The river that flows past the town of Fronteras was busy as usual with panga traffic. Typically, with people and goods being shipped up and down the river. There were even a few dugout canons with lone fisherman casting nets and lines into the turbid waters.

We had several thundershowers pass through the area in the morning but as we sailed under the bridge the clouds and the sun broke out and the wind filled in. By the time were passed the old fort, Castillo San Felipe, I had unfurled the headsail putting us onto a nice run. Some friends who saw us depart motored out in their dinghy to say their final farewells, it was a great send off as the sun began to set to the west.

Lake Izabal id the largest lake in Guatemala coving almost 600 sq/kilometers. The lake is 24 nautical miles long and 10 or 12 miles at its widest. It’s a shallow lake with an official  with much of it less than 40 feet deep. Its reported that the deepest section is only 60 feet but we would cross over a section that was over 70 feet.

What we would find surprising was just how deserted the lake and shoreline was. The jungle-lined fringes were mostly deserted, dotted with few homes and scattered cantinas and hotels. The jungle beyond is reported to host a variety of wildlife. including Jaguar, Spider Monkey, Blue-eye cichlids, and Howler Monkeys.

The lake itself, was also home to manatees that thrive in the mangroves at the nature reserve at the top of the lake. We would see some Manatees next to the boat.  The water was incredibly clean and warm, blood warm. At first I though my instruments were malfunctioning as it was telling me that the water temperatures was 32 degrees Celsius. (89.6 F) which we would soon confirm when we dove in for a swim.

It was dark by the time we arrived at our destination, A little cove off the tiny community of Finca Paraiso. After anchoring and panning a spotlight across the dark waters looking for the glowing eyes of lurking crocs, we dove in for a swim before bed.

In the morning we took the dink ashore to land on a dock at a small, rustic hotel where we were greeted warmly by the owners. After a brief talk and a negotiation, their son agreed to drive us the two miles or so into the jungle to the “The Cascadas at Finca El Paraíso” and national park a waterfall comprised of a hot spring.

Our driver stopped at a tiny hut marking the park entrances where a cheery fellow charge us a couple of bucks to enter. We were dropped off at the head of the trail where two Mayan women and a herd of young and persistent children pleaded with us to buy drinking coconuts. They let us pass after I promised to buy some on the way back.

It was a short hike up a muddy trail that followed the meandering river to the falls. The sight from the bank was incredible. At a choke point, strewn with boulders  in the tiny river, there was a cliff of perhaps 30 feet tall with a cascading stream of steaming water. There were perhaps 15 or so other bathers enjoying the spot but there was plenty of room for all. We were told to come on a week day as we would probably have the place to our selves but this was a Sunday and a national holiday so we would have to share, but we did mind. The locals all smiled and waved a welcome.

The waist deep water in the swiftly flowing river was cool compared to the humid, 30C surrounding jungle, but the waters flowing over the falls was hot, so much so that a few degrees warmers it would have burned the skin.

It was luxurious to say the least and Jackie and I had a splendid afternoon of dipping and resting on the boulder strewn banks. When we were in Mexico some years back, in a public market there was a lady who had buckets of tiny fish which she charged an absorbent amount of money for people to place their feet in the pails to have the fish clean off the dead skin from their feet.

Well, I know now where those fish come from as the river was full of the little beggars. If you stood still, the fish would congregate around not only your feet, but legs and nibble away. To immerses your entire body would invite a full body cleansing. The process tickled for the most part but when they attacked the delicate skin under my arms I started to which as if they were administering electric shocks. To avoid being eaten alive entailed wading into the hot water section of the river.  

We had a grand day and on the way out we purchased drinking nuts for $1 from the eager children. My only regret was that I had not brought rum to add to the nut, next time. Our driver picked us up at the agreed time to take us back to the hotel where be bought beers and sat in loungers by the lake side.

It was almost dusk by the time we got back to the boat but we wasted little time, we had a quick swim then up anchor and headed across the lake in the dark and a stiff wind.

It was late by the time we anchored off of Denny’s Beach. We had heard a great deal about the place and were eager to go ashore to explore. There was a quaint little resort on shore but aside from the few grounds keepers puttering around, we saw no-one. We wandered about unchallenged, then we explored further down the beach. It was an interesting place and I’m sure during high season it would be hopping. But for us it was a bust.

The place was reported to have one of the beast beaches in the lake but recent flooding and removed much of the sand. We only spent the day at Denny’s beach before heading back to the Rio. It was nearing sunset when we entered the month of the river to sail past a magnificent site. The Castle of San Felipe de Lara is a Spanish colonial fort built in 1644 at the entrance to Lake Izabal in eastern Guatemala.  Will make an effort to see it from the land on our next trip. We anchored back off of marina Nana Juana for the nigh where we received a visit from Jessica, who had made us our new dodger. Her and her husband came by to put a few more snaps on the dodger and to deliver the new curtains they had made for the boat. it was nice to take down the soiled towels we had been using lately and hang the new drapes.

We only spent the day before heading back to the Rio. It was nearing sunset when we entered the month of the river to sail past a magnificent site. The Castle of San Felipe de Lara is a Spanish colonial fort built in 1644 at the entrance to Lake Izabal in eastern Guatemala.  Will make an effort to see it from the land on our next trip. We anchored back off of marina Nana Juana for the night where we received a visit from Jessica, who had made us our new dodger. Her and her husband came by to put a few more snaps on the dodger and to deliver the new curtains they had made for the boat. it was nice to take down the soiled towels we had been using lately and hand the new drapes.

We were up early the next morning to head down river bound for Belize, but that will have to wait for the next posting.

Fair winds all.

Rainbow cast over The Rio Dulce and Marina Nana Juana.

With the the necessary work complete, we were going to head up river into the lake for a shakedown cruise before heading to Belize.