Tuesday, December-03-13

Tuesday, December-03-13

 Ok Jan and I took the dink ashore today and did a bit of a grocery shop at Las Hadas in Manzanillio, got back to the boat after dark. Had a swim to cool down before getting underway- will be motoring out of Manzanillio by 9pm for a overnight sail down the coast to our next anchorage about 80 miles away or so. It’s a calm night and probably will have to motor most of the way. It’s a dark night with no moon, the stars should be brilliant.  By for now.

 

Wednesday, December-04-13

HI, we departed Manzanillo after dark and spent the night sailing down the coast to Bahia Maruata, Calm night with lots of stars and dolphins. We arrived just after noon today- pretty little bay with a small village, a child on the beach spotted us as we came into anchor and started to wave and call to us. There was a little cantina on the beach that looked deserted but as soon as we had the hook down the music started to play. no doubt for our benefit. but unfortunately the anchorage was very rough so we decided after just a few minutes to move a dozen miles down the coast to the next bay. So we arrived at Ensenada De Pechilinquillo at about 3pm, just as we were about to turn into the bay we hooked a big ass tuna, it gave me a tough fight and I thought for sure it would break the line but together, Jan and I manage to tire it out and land it on the boat- got pictures. Since we don’t like to eat this species of tuna as the meat is very dark, we let it go. The bay is much more comfortable and aside from some fishing shack a couple of miles down the beach where a coast road dips down to the sea, we have the place to ourselves. The water here is warmer still, and very clear. Think we will spent tomorrow here to snorkel and explore. We are only about 90 miles or so from Ixtapa where we plan on meeting Marina when she fly’s down on the 14th of December.

There is no cell service along this stretch of the coast so I’ll be using my ham radio to send and receive emails for a bit. take care Love from Andy & Jan

Sunday, December-01-13

Sunday, December-01-13  

Well this has got to have been the best day that we have had since returning to Mexico and Maiatla a month ago.  We awoke this morning feeling the warm morning breeze funnel down though the hatch that leads into Maiatla’s great aft cabin. Through the stern windows I could see the sun rise over the jungle mountains thick with the bluish tropical haze. It was a blissful night at anchor here at BahiaTenacatita. It was millpond calm with a sky full of stars and around Maiatla, the sea swirled with fish igniting trails of bio-luminance. After cooking Jan and I breakfast, I launched the dinghy and mounted the larger of our two out board engines as I had a trip planned for today.  As Jan readied herself, I swan next to the boat as it was well on its way to 90 degree temp that it would reach today. Jan loaded the snorkeling gear into the dink and we were soon off, not headed to the nearby reef but to the entrances of a small river that enters the sea near here.

The day previous I had taken a swim in the river to cool off after a long walk on the deserted beach. As I exited the water I saw a sign. My comprehension of Spanish is weak at best but at the bottom of the notice board I was able to read the final few words which when translated says. “Don’t molest the crocodiles”. I guess I should have read the sign before my swim.

This morning we were off on a Crocodile hunt up into the mangrove swamp. There was quite a current but we had the power to explore deep, miles deep into the tangle knot of trees full of crabs and crocks , snakes and lizzards. With each bend in the narrow river, great white egrets, herons and hawks and a species of kingfisher all to flight as we raced by. We even surprised a few crocodiles, one of which decided to cross in front of us. I tried to stop the boat but the meter long reptile kept coming. When he reached the side of the dinghy, (of course on Jan’s side) he ducked under the boat, bumping its head all along the bottom , as if looking for a weak spot, until emerging on the far side  Where it gave us an indignant look and carried on.

After spend several hours feeling like Bogart and Hepburn in the African Queen. We retreated downstream to beach the dink at the head of the river as it dumps into the surf where a thatched roof Palapa stands. We ordered cold Coronas and garlic prawns while dinning in the shade of coconut palms as Maiatla swung on the hook just off shore.  After lunch we motored around the point to a secluded spot, anchored the dink and spent the following two hours chasing angle fish, neon’s and gobes. We tailed a precocious octopus while trying to take video and we even, ever so cautiously, tailed a speckled sea snake as it hunted the nooks and crannies just a meter of so below us. We Returned to Maiatla in the late afternoon, stripped off and went for another swim next to our home.  We shower and Jan retreated to our cabin to read as I popped the top on another beer to sit in the cockpit to watch the world, every soooo slowly, go by. About the time the sun disappeared to the west, it was dinner time, more garlic prawns with rice cooked on the BBQ.  After which we both then read, did some e-mails and went early to bed as we had and early plan for departure, bound for Manzanillio, a harbour town and our next stop on our way to central America. Not a bad day at all down here and quite fitting as tomorrow is my Birthday. Happy Birthday to Me! The best part was that I got to share it with Jan.

Sorry if I have been a bit remiss in making regular posting buts it’s been a hectic 350 miles coming down the coast. But I will try and get everyone updated.

Regards, Andy and Jan aboard Maiatla in Mexico.

PV to Bahia Tenacatita.

November the 25th.   PV to Bahia Tenacatita.

Well spent the previous five days Gunkholing down the coast from PV to Bahia Tenacatita. The weather was as usual hot and humid with skies that are never marred by a passing cloud. We only made brief overnight stop at Punta Ipala as it was rolley and a tight anchorage. This would be typical of most of the tiny bays along the way so we passed them up. Our Next stop was Bahia de Chamela. We liked the anchorage as it was clam, big and had a nice little Mexican town that made us feel welcome. The place had a great beach but after sunset a few mosquitoes came out. There is a small river that you can take the dink up to explore but we didn’t as we only planned to spend a couple of days here before moving on.  There are a few nice little islands located within the bay that look good for snorkeling and exploring but again we didn’t. After three days we hoisted the anchor at sunrise and headed out. It would be a long haul to our next anchorage but it was reported to be a good one for cruisers.

Dodging the Bullet

November , 28 2013.

We would spend five days at Marian La Cruz here in Bandaras bay. The weather perfect although still hot, much too hot. We did a few boat chores and Jan went up to the cruisers lounge to download some episodes of “The Walking Dead” for nights we feel like watching a little TV. Things have changed since we were here only seven months ago. There are fewer boats in the marina but the anchorage is pretty full. When I checked in with the marina I discovered that some of my Mexican paperwork was missing. My Temporary Import Permit was missing. It took a while for me to figure out but I concluded that when I had work done on Maiatal last summer, when I was back in Canada working, a local contractor moved the boat to the yard for painting. He gave the yard my TIP and never got it back. After a  flurry of emails and I managed to get the work yard to photo copy my TIP and email it back. As it turned out it was very fortunate that I had. Later that day three armed guards and three official looking suits came down the dock and demanded to see my papers. All very politely of course. They scrutinized my documents and ask to come aboard for an inspection, Just routine one of the officials said. A rather pretty Mexican lady who spoke passable English. They didn’t inspect me for contraband but demanded to see the vessels serial numbers carved into the wall of the bilge and the engine serial numbers as well. Satisfied that they matched, I was thanked for my cooperation and they left,. But they didn’t go far, only the boat next door. I was relieved that I was not singled out for some strange reason so I went about my business of washing down the boat. 

It would be until much later that I would learn the true nature of the visit by the armed officials. A few weeks later while in Acapulco tied up at the Yachtclub, did I notice that almost 1 in 3 vessels located there had a impound sticker attached saying that the vessel may not be moved. A little perplexed I asked one of the dock workers about it who informed that the boats were being held for not paying fees. At the time I assumed he meant docking fees. A rather hi number of deadbeat boat owners here but I did not inquire further.  Again a few weeks later while tied up in Hautulco Mexico another cruiser told me of an article that had just been published in a Californian sailing magazine. Apparently the Mexican government was cracking down on visiting vessels that had incorrect documentation or had not paid the proper fees for leaving a boat in Mexico, IE there TIP. 

But even if all your paperwork was in order, Even if no one was aboard of the time of the officials visit to present the papers, the vessel received and impound stick anyways.

Apparently any irregularities like wrong serial numbers or missing documentation was cause for immediate impound. And work was that even if you managed to locate all your documents after the fact, it could take up to four months to get your boat released. And if you just happened to be at a marina dock for a few days to re-provision, you were stuck there and would have to continue to pay the docking charges. A cruisers season could be ruined over this or worse, if you happened to have pulled into a expensive dock, with the intent of staying just for a day or so, you were really out of luck. Guess we dodged the old bullet by getting our TIP back just in the nic of time. We here its becoming a nightmare for some cruisers.

Rollers and whales

Sunday, November 24, 2013

 

Left San Blas at first light, calm day but a ground swell was on the beam causing us to roll quite a bit- Jan not happy she came topside about lunch to relieve me, I slept for a coupler of hours in cockpit, saw two pods of whales , one with over 10 . Very hot and humid for most of the day. The wind finally filled in from the north and we shut off the engine for the last two hours as we sailed into Banderas bay and to Marina La Cruz. Low batteries have been giving us a hard time. Having trouble getting charge back up after nearly killing them with the radio. Had trouble with watermaker but after a few hours of cursing it I discover that the overboard dump valve was turned to recirculate. At dock now, Jan still not happy as internet at the marina sucks. This has been a trend in Mexico. Its seems like they cant just figure this stuff out. Despite all the cleaning we still have a funky mildew smell in the boat, more cleaning in the near future. Need new spark plug for genset, stripped the threads on the last one while working on engine. Overcast skies tonight but still hot. No breeze but the electric fans are working. Time zone change here.

 

Off to PV

Sunday, November 24, 2013 

Left San Blas at first light, calm day but a ground swell was on the beam causing us to roll quite a bit- Jan not happy, started the day out crying then the rest of the morning in bed. She came topside about lunch to relieve me, slept for a coupler of hours in cockpit, saw two pods of whales , one with over 10 . wind finally filled in from the north and we shut off the engine for the last two hours as we sailed into Banderas bay and to Marina La Cruz. Low batteries have been giving us a hard time. Having trouble getting charge back up after nearly killing them with the radio. Had trouble with watermaker but after a few hours of cursing it I discover that the overboard dump valve was turned to recirculate. At dock now, Jan still not happy as internet at the marina sucks. S despite all the cleaning we still have a funky mildew smell in the boat, more cleaning in the near future. Need new spark plug for genset, stripped the threads on the last one while working on engine. Overcast skies tonight but still hot. No breeze but the electric fans are working. Time zone change here.

 

San Blas and crocs

Saturday, November 23, 2013.

 

We an uneventful sail with a nice following wind over to San Blas. Both Mark and I caught nice dorados for the BBQ. Dropped anchor in Mantananchen bay and dropped the hook just at sunset about half a mile from shore in order to avoid the bugs, but I guess it wasn’t far enough so we moved out another quarter mile after we started to get bit by no-seeums.

 

Just after breakfast we and mark and Cathy took the dinks ashore and went into town after flagging down a cab. There were a few mosquitoes alongside the road but not bad. Far fewer Mexican tourist her now as the summer, the hot and wet season is just ending. 

It was very hot in town and one local Mexican who spoke a bit of English said that it was hot and shouldn’t be this hot now. And hot it was we and especially Jan was just dyeing. We stuck to the shade whenever we could. We did a quick shop, had lunch and a few beers in an open air restaurant alongside the square then hailed a cab to get back to the boat for a swim. 

The following day was just awesome as we took a panga up through the mangroves, saw birds and crocs, on almost 10 feet long, really cool. Stopped for a beer and a swim in a natural spring than went back to the beach where we spent the afternoon knocking back coronas and garlic prawns while listening to a Mexican band. We swam some more, went back to the boat, swan some more and cooked the fish, the dorado we caught sailing down here on the BBQ and now it’s time to eat it…. then have a swim and a shower before bed. Not as hot today as it has been but it’s pretty warm in the boat tonight as there is only a light breeze. Jan and I both slept well last night and I think we will both sleep the dead tonight. Departing early in the morning for PV, should be there by end of Sunday.

 

Love to all Andy & Jan

.DSCN0130 DSCN0116 DSCN0106 DSCN0032 DSCN0015 102_1353

Isla Isabel-again

Thursday, November-21-13

Isla Isabel. there is some overlap with our last post so no… its not a deja vue thing!

We had an awesome night sail down from Mazatlán Isla Isabela that lay about 90 miles to the south east of us. We had 10 to 15 knots of wind from the stern and a nearly a full moon rising directly off our bow. I set the pole on the headsail and vanged the main boom to the rail so we had a nice sail running wing and wing. Didn’t set any speed records but we managed to average between four and five knots. Mark and Cathy from Sweet Chariot sailed along with us most of the night. Mark doesn’t have a pole for his headsail so he had to sail a zigzag pattern in an effort to keep his sails full. This course just left him frustrated so by about midnight he dropped all sails and motored a direct course for the rest of the night so we soon lost sight of his lights.

We spotted the island just as day broke, we were still ca couple of hours out so I decided to put down the fishing gear. As luck would have it, I nailed something, and it was big. I played it for half an hour before losing it. I never saw what it was… big tuna maybe.

We anchored in what I began to call out “usual spot” in the more protected south bay. (this was our fourth time here in the past year) The bottom is rocky and can foul your anchor but I’m not worried as I have my diving gear aboard and I think I know this bottom well as we lost and anchor here last year and Jan and I spent the better part of the day diving trying to locate it, which we eventually did.

There we some local fisherman camped on the beach in shacks and half a dozen seiners anchored nearby, one of which Mark and I visited and bought some fresh prawns. Went ashore and climbed “lighthouse hill” with Mark and took some pics, awesome view. We wanted an early night as we were just bagged from the grueling sail from Mazatlán. Not really but sounds good don’t it? But we had a social engagement with our friends. We played dominos with Kathy and Mark and two other cruisers aboard Sweet Chariot.  Good night but it was all over by 9pm so I fired up the generator and we watched a movie and had popcorn.

Woke up to a heavy thunder shower that lasted for about an hour, no wind just lots of rain. All bluster no bight. Another beautiful day so Mark, Kathy and I snorkeled on the reef after which I went spear fishing, got a little Cabra and one lobster. Had lobster salad for dinner last night. We also hiked up the volcano and over to the far side to see the Boobies. Not as many as last time as it’s still early in the season. But lots of Frigate Birds but they are not nesting much either. We decided that we would be moving on to san Blas in a day or so as Jan did not sleep well again, anchorage is a bit rolly, hopeful  San Blas will be calmer, will stay there for a few days so she can rest up.

Isla Isabel bound

Monday, November-18-13

  Hi all. Note that this email was sent over our Ham radio with a very limited capacity. If you wish to respond, and we would love to hear from you, please don’t just push reply and send our own email back to us- or just delete it first.

We left Mazatlán bay a couple of hours before sunset with 15 knots of wind on the stern, sailed wing and wing all night under a full moon. Sea was bit confused but it was a comfortable night sail. Passed through two shrimp fleets which added a bit of excitement to a otherwise peaceful night. We departed with another boat, mark And Kathy who we met and sailed with last year. They were joined last night by a large pod of dolphins which road there bow wave for a while, but sadly we did not see them this time. We spotted our destination just after daybreak, Isla Isabel. A Jurassic looking island of existent volcanoes swarming with Frigate and Blue Footed Booby birds. The birds are just started nesting and some already have eggs in the nests on the ground. As we approached the island I put out the fishing rod and within 20 I had something hooked. Jan slowed the boat down as I played the fish for over half an hour but I lost it next to the boat. Not sure what it was, a tuna or Dorado perhaps.

Anyway we are safely at anchor on the islands with our friends and tomorrow we will explore ashore and spend the hottest part of the day snorkeling on a nearby reef that I found last time we were here. After sunset, Jan and I stripped off and went for a skinny dip alongside the boat as we did another full moon broached the horizon casting a ghostly glow over the entire island. Anyway that’s all for now, Take care and love from Andy and Jan.

Blue footed Boobie at Isal Isabel Friget Bird at Isal Isabel

On our way–sort of

Saturday, November-16-13

Well departed Marina Mazatlán without fanfare of a hitch. The last couple of days had been partly overcast so we got a bit of respite from the heat which made both Jan and I happy. We quickly sailed over to a pair of tiny islands just a few miles away to anchor off a beautiful sand beach, right next to some cruising friend, Mark and Kathy from Salem Oregon and there boat, Sweet Chariot. It had been a tough two weeks of cleaning the boat and making sure all systems were operating normally. I was very surprised that Maiatla, not only survived hurricane season with its high winds and torrential downpours but everything seemed to be in working order… or most anyway as we were destined to find out at the worst possible moment.

After anchoring in 15 feet of water over a beautiful sand bottom I wasted no time in stripping off and leaping for a swim. As I swam about the boat in the buff Jan ducked down below for a nap. It was an early dinner and we were looking forward to a quiet night blissfully at anchor, an that’s how’s it started out but it was destined to change. When we turned in just before midnight, the sea was like glass with only a gentle swell wrapping around the corner of the island to help rock us to sleep. And sleep we did, like the dead until I awoke as I felt like my feet were getting wet. It took me several hard seconds of reasoning to comprehend what was happening. I bolted upright as I realised that the boat was raising and falling as what felt like large waves lifted then dropped her bow. It was about the same moment that I discovered why my feet were getting wet. The hatch over our bed was wide open and instead of snatching the gentle tropical breeze and forcing into our cabin it was channeling a pounding rain propelled by what was a small gale.  I crawled over top of a still sleeping Janet, trying not to wake her to bolted topside to see what was going on.  When I reached the cockpit I was surprised to see the harbour all torn up by the high winds with steep breaking waves racing about and amidst it all was Maiatla bucking and pulling on her anchor chain like a wild stallion on acid. 

I left the cockpit to run first forward to remove the wind sock from the forward hatch then the aft, closing them each in turn. By the time I returned to the protection of the cockpit Jan was topside asking me what was going on. But before I could relay all that I knew (which wasn’t much at that point,) I noticed the lights of our companion boat, Sweet Chariot which looked frightfully close, actually way too close. I ran forward again to get a better look. Apparently our friends were dragging their anchor across the bottom and they were heading for us and very quickly and being only a couple of boat lengths away we had to do something and fast.

I called out hoping that my friends would hear me and get out of bed but I got no response to my call. I ran aft back to the cockpit and grabbed the radio and began calling them, all the while starting Maiatla’s engine. My plan was simple, I did not have time to pull our own anchor and motor out of the way so the next best thing was to drive us off to one side dragging our anchor and chain with us and hopefully out of the way of this runaway boat. All 10 tons of her.

Fortunately I didn’t have to do anything as just when I was about to engage Maiatla’s engine, I saw Sweet Chariots  lights come on and I could smell the acrid odor of diesel exhaust. Make and Kathy had awoken about the same time as I, the rain brought them topside as well. Well we were ok for the moment but our friends were not so. Kathy took the helm and began to slowly motor up wind which averted a collision with us. As she did so, Mark went forward to retrieve their anchor but as fate likes to trick us, the anchor winch refused to cooperate. Sweet Chariot electric anchor winch failed forcing mark to retrieve a 35LBS anchor and 100 feet of chain on the slick heaving deck while Kathy kept the boat moving forward without driving over top of their anchor and pulling Mark off the deck . After a grueling half hour Mark finally managed to get the anchor up get clear of us. I squinted into the dark to watch as they circled around downwind, searching for a new anchoring spot. He called me on the radio and asked my advice. I made a suggestion but I could tell from the tone of his voice that her wisent to happy with my suggestion anchoring a bit further out from the island. I think he thought he would be too far out into the harbour and in traffic channels. Anyway he re-anchored just off on my stern and when he tried to shut down the engine by pushing the kill switch, the engine refused to die. So it was down into the engine room for Mark where he manually shut the engine down.  All now seemed well so we went back to bed. But as it was all wisent well aboard Sweet Chariot. Once anchored and with the engine off Mark went to see an answer as to why his anchor winch did not work and just to play out a hunch, he tried to restart the engine which now refused to turn over. And to make matters worse they had anchored in only 10 feet of water and with a 7 foot draft and the boat bouncing up and down and obviously coming very near the bottom they decided to move once again but with no windless to haul the anchor and no engine and shallow water underfoot they had quite a dilemma. Fortunately they were no longer dragging anchor and the wind and seas were dyeing down. Mark spend a couple of seat soaked hours tracing wiring until he found the short. A quick fix in the end without serious consequences, but there could have been.

The following day it was back to fun in the sun and a swim  and hike up the mountain to take pics of the boats at anchor, all as if had just been a normal night, and from a cruising standpoint, it pretty much was.

Maiatla anchored off of Mazatla-2