Monday, December 16, 2013

Ok we arrived in Acapulco just at day break. We are now at anchor just off of the yacht club waiting for the office to open. Had a sleep in the meantime. We had a good motor sail down from Zihuat, not much wind but it wasn’t as hot as it has been as there was a bit of cloud cover and a cooling breeze. We even passed a couple of thunderstorms during the night. Some lighting but it didn’t get very close. But one storm was so thick that we were able to track it on the radar. It was so big and intense that it looked like an islands that was charging towards us. Fortunately it missed us by about 2 miles and aside from a few sprinkles, we didn’t get hit. The wind did increase to 8 knots and switch around 180 degrees. We had nearly a full moon all night so visibility was excellent, a beautiful warm tropical night all in all. We fished all the way down but only managed to land a Brown footed booby that dove on one of my lures and got its self hooked. At first the bird  was waterskiing behind the boat then it took to the wing and we towed it like a kite until I was able to reel it in and with Jan and Marinas help, I removed the hooks from the bird’s breast and we set it free. Aside from being really confused it didn’t look too worse off for the experience.  We also had a few dolphins join us briefly and we did spy a few, very large sea turtles along the way.

Ah yes, as Jan so dutifully reminded me, I forgot to report a little incident that occurred on Marina’s first night in Zihuat. Shortly after she arrived, we took her in the dinghy with all her baggage back to Maiatla that was anchored out in the harbor. We had a couple of beers aboard to celebrate her safe arrival then we took the dink back ashore looking for a restaurant. Well I guess I’m a little rusty at my surf landings because a rather nasty wave took charge. In front of countless spectators, we first surfed then nearly flipped the dinghy. Jan and I were tossed clean out, to fall into the tumbling surf. Somehow, Marina managed to stay in the dink which was quickly filled with water. She looked as though she was sitting in a great white bathtub as the wave carried her the rest of the way in. The wave quickly left us high, but anything but dry on the beach and it was a mad scramble to recover and get the dink the rest of the way ashore before the next great comber pounded in. Once safely out of the reach of the waves, and to a round of applause, we wrung out our best, “Saturday night going to diner cloths”.

We did our best to act natural while we slunk into town in an effort to dry off enough to so we could sit in a chair and not leave a puddle behind. Despite our inauspicious landing, we had a great night of seafood platters, coconut shrimp while discovering that this MUST be the place where Margaritas was invented as they we just the best.

We will spend two to four days here doing some boat chores and install some of the spare parts that Marina was so kind to bring down. Well that’s about it for now.

Adios from Acapulco.

Wednesday, December 11, 2013.

Well everything is harder in the tropics. Even something as simple as grocery shopping. If the heat and humidity, crowed Mexican buses (did not have to share a seat with chickens), and the language barrier wasn’t enough, there is the crocodiles. What do crocodiles have to do with grocery shopping? Well I’ll tell ya.

 We had just returned to Maiatla, soaked in perspiration after trudging through a bodega in Zihuatanejo.  Jan jumped into the cockpit to receive the packages as I unloaded them from the cart. Just as the last box of Tacate was hoisted aboard, a freak gust of wind (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!) blew our well used but expensive shopping cart right off the dock into the water. As I stood on the dock watching our card disappear into the 4 meters of brackish mire, I paused. Under normal circumstances I would not have hesitated to have dived right in after it, snatching hold long before it had a chance to settle on the bottom. But I could not dive in, all I could do was watch in silence the fading trail of bubbles that marked its watery grave. I was not afraid of the dark waters, no! but I was afraid of what may be lurking below. As we were informed upon arrival, that the marina was home to crocodiles and apparently some really big ones. We were told not to let our pets wander near the water. For fear of being eaten.  Good advice if we had actual a pet aboard.

So anyway, I had a new dilemma, one was to find a way to get our cart back, and two was to tell Jan that the cart that had accompanied us down the coast of North America and to Hawaii was now gone and that I had somehow lost her.  So instead of sacrificing myself to some hungry gator, I pulled my fishing rod out and began trolling. Almost an hour later I manage to salvage the cart.  Of course I had to get Jan to take a pic of my latest catch. That’s how crocodiles and shopping for groceries can converge.

Tuesday, December-03-13

 Ok Jan and I took the dink ashore today and did a bit of a grocery shop at Las Hadas in Manzanillio, got back to the boat after dark. Had a swim to cool down before getting underway- will be motoring out of Manzanillio by 9pm for a overnight sail down the coast to our next anchorage about 80 miles away or so. It’s a calm night and probably will have to motor most of the way. It’s a dark night with no moon, the stars should be brilliant.  By for now.

Wednesday, December-04-13

HI, we departed Manzanillo after dark and spent the night sailing down the coast to Bahia Maruata, Calm night with lots of stars and dolphins. We arrived just after noon today- pretty little bay with a small village, a child on the beach spotted us as we came into anchor and started to wave and call to us. There was a little cantina on the beach that looked deserted but as soon as we had the hook down the music started to play. no doubt for our benefit. but unfortunately the anchorage was very rough so we decided after just a few minutes to move a dozen miles down the coast to the next bay. So we arrived at Ensenada De Pechilinquillo at about 3pm, just as we were about to turn into the bay we hooked a big ass tuna, it gave me a tough fight and I thought for sure it would break the line but together, Jan and I manage to tire it out and land it on the boat- got pictures. Since we don’t like to eat this species of tuna as the meat is very dark, we let it go. The bay is much more comfortable and aside from some fishing shack a couple of miles down the beach where a coast road dips down to the sea, we have the place to ourselves. The water here is warmer still, and very clear. Think we will spent tomorrow here to snorkel and explore. We are only about 90 miles or so from Ixtapa where we plan on meeting Marina when she fly’s down on the 14th of December.

There is no cell service along this stretch of the coast so I’ll be using my ham radio to send and receive emails for a bit. take care Love from Andy & Jan

Sunday, December-01-13  

Well this has got to have been the best day that we have had since returning to Mexico and Maiatla a month ago.  We awoke this morning feeling the warm morning breeze funnel down though the hatch that leads into Maiatla’s great aft cabin. Through the stern windows I could see the sun rise over the jungle mountains thick with the bluish tropical haze. It was a blissful night at anchor here at BahiaTenacatita. It was millpond calm with a sky full of stars and around Maiatla, the sea swirled with fish igniting trails of bio-luminance. After cooking Jan and I breakfast, I launched the dinghy and mounted the larger of our two out board engines as I had a trip planned for today.  As Jan readied herself, I swan next to the boat as it was well on its way to 90 degree temp that it would reach today. Jan loaded the snorkeling gear into the dink and we were soon off, not headed to the nearby reef but to the entrances of a small river that enters the sea near here.

The day previous I had taken a swim in the river to cool off after a long walk on the deserted beach. As I exited the water I saw a sign. My comprehension of Spanish is weak at best but at the bottom of the notice board I was able to read the final few words which when translated says. “Don’t molest the crocodiles”. I guess I should have read the sign before my swim.

This morning we were off on a Crocodile hunt up into the mangrove swamp. There was quite a current but we had the power to explore deep, miles deep into the tangle knot of trees full of crabs and crocks , snakes and lizzards. With each bend in the narrow river, great white egrets, herons and hawks and a species of kingfisher all to flight as we raced by. We even surprised a few crocodiles, one of which decided to cross in front of us. I tried to stop the boat but the meter long reptile kept coming. When he reached the side of the dinghy, (of course on Jan’s side) he ducked under the boat, bumping its head all along the bottom , as if looking for a weak spot, until emerging on the far side  Where it gave us an indignant look and carried on.

After spend several hours feeling like Bogart and Hepburn in the African Queen. We retreated downstream to beach the dink at the head of the river as it dumps into the surf where a thatched roof Palapa stands. We ordered cold Coronas and garlic prawns while dinning in the shade of coconut palms as Maiatla swung on the hook just off shore.  After lunch we motored around the point to a secluded spot, anchored the dink and spent the following two hours chasing angle fish, neon’s and gobes. We tailed a precocious octopus while trying to take video and we even, ever so cautiously, tailed a speckled sea snake as it hunted the nooks and crannies just a meter of so below us. We Returned to Maiatla in the late afternoon, stripped off and went for another swim next to our home.  We shower and Jan retreated to our cabin to read as I popped the top on another beer to sit in the cockpit to watch the world, every soooo slowly, go by. About the time the sun disappeared to the west, it was dinner time, more garlic prawns with rice cooked on the BBQ.  After which we both then read, did some e-mails and went early to bed as we had and early plan for departure, bound for Manzanillio, a harbour town and our next stop on our way to central America. Not a bad day at all down here and quite fitting as tomorrow is my Birthday. Happy Birthday to Me! The best part was that I got to share it with Jan.

Sorry if I have been a bit remiss in making regular posting buts it’s been a hectic 350 miles coming down the coast. But I will try and get everyone updated.

Regards, Andy and Jan aboard Maiatla in Mexico.

November the 25^th.   PV to Bahia Tenacatita.

Well spent the previous five days Gunkholing down the coast from PV to Bahia Tenacatita. The weather was as usual hot and humid with skies that are never marred by a passing cloud. We only made brief overnight stop at Punta Ipala as it was rolley and a tight anchorage. This would be typical of most of the tiny bays along the way so we passed them up. Our Next stop was Bahia de Chamela. We liked the anchorage as it was clam, big and had a nice little Mexican town that made us feel welcome. The place had a great beach but after sunset a few mosquitoes came out. There is a small river that you can take the dink up to explore but we didn’t as we only planned to spend a couple of days here before moving on.  There are a few nice little islands located within the bay that look good for snorkeling and exploring but again we didn’t. After three days we hoisted the anchor at sunrise and headed out. It would be a long haul to our next anchorage but it was reported to be a good one for cruisers.

November , 28 2013.

We would spend five days at Marian La Cruz here in Bandaras bay. The weather perfect although still hot, much too hot. We did a few boat chores and Jan went up to the cruisers lounge to download some episodes of “The Walking Dead” for nights we feel like watching a little TV. Things have changed since we were here only seven months ago. There are fewer boats in the marina but the anchorage is pretty full. When I checked in with the marina I discovered that some of my Mexican paperwork was missing. My Temporary Import Permit was missing. It took a while for me to figure out but I concluded that when I had work done on Maiatal last summer, when I was back in Canada working, a local contractor moved the boat to the yard for painting. He gave the yard my TIP and never got it back. After a  flurry of emails and I managed to get the work yard to photo copy my TIP and email it back. As it turned out it was very fortunate that I had. Later that day three armed guards and three official looking suits came down the dock and demanded to see my papers. All very politely of course. They scrutinized my documents and ask to come aboard for an inspection, Just routine one of the officials said. A rather pretty Mexican lady who spoke passable English. They didn’t inspect me for contraband but demanded to see the vessels serial numbers carved into the wall of the bilge and the engine serial numbers as well. Satisfied that they matched, I was thanked for my cooperation and they left,. But they didn’t go far, only the boat next door. I was relieved that I was not singled out for some strange reason so I went about my business of washing down the boat. 

It would be until much later that I would learn the true nature of the visit by the armed officials. A few weeks later while in Acapulco tied up at the Yachtclub, did I notice that almost 1 in 3 vessels located there had a impound sticker attached saying that the vessel may not be moved. A little perplexed I asked one of the dock workers about it who informed that the boats were being held for not paying fees. At the time I assumed he meant docking fees. A rather hi number of deadbeat boat owners here but I did not inquire further.  Again a few weeks later while tied up in Hautulco Mexico another cruiser told me of an article that had just been published in a Californian sailing magazine. Apparently the Mexican government was cracking down on visiting vessels that had incorrect documentation or had not paid the proper fees for leaving a boat in Mexico, IE there TIP. 

But even if all your paperwork was in order, Even if no one was aboard of the time of the officials visit to present the papers, the vessel received and impound stick anyways.

Apparently any irregularities like wrong serial numbers or missing documentation was cause for immediate impound. And work was that even if you managed to locate all your documents after the fact, it could take up to four months to get your boat released. And if you just happened to be at a marina dock for a few days to re-provision, you were stuck there and would have to continue to pay the docking charges. A cruisers season could be ruined over this or worse, if you happened to have pulled into a expensive dock, with the intent of staying just for a day or so, you were really out of luck. Guess we dodged the old bullet by getting our TIP back just in the nic of time. We here its becoming a nightmare for some cruisers.

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Left San Blas at first light, calm day but a ground swell was on the beam causing us to roll quite a bit- Jan not happy she came topside about lunch to relieve me, I slept for a coupler of hours in cockpit, saw two pods of whales , one with over 10 . Very hot and humid for most of the day. The wind finally filled in from the north and we shut off the engine for the last two hours as we sailed into Banderas bay and to Marina La Cruz. Low batteries have been giving us a hard time. Having trouble getting charge back up after nearly killing them with the radio. Had trouble with watermaker but after a few hours of cursing it I discover that the overboard dump valve was turned to recirculate. At dock now, Jan still not happy as internet at the marina sucks. This has been a trend in Mexico. Its seems like they cant just figure this stuff out. Despite all the cleaning we still have a funky mildew smell in the boat, more cleaning in the near future. Need new spark plug for genset, stripped the threads on the last one while working on engine. Overcast skies tonight but still hot. No breeze but the electric fans are working. Time zone change here.

Sunday, November 24, 2013 

Left San Blas at first light, calm day but a ground swell was on the beam causing us to roll quite a bit- Jan not happy, started the day out crying then the rest of the morning in bed. She came topside about lunch to relieve me, slept for a coupler of hours in cockpit, saw two pods of whales , one with over 10 . wind finally filled in from the north and we shut off the engine for the last two hours as we sailed into Banderas bay and to Marina La Cruz. Low batteries have been giving us a hard time. Having trouble getting charge back up after nearly killing them with the radio. Had trouble with watermaker but after a few hours of cursing it I discover that the overboard dump valve was turned to recirculate. At dock now, Jan still not happy as internet at the marina sucks. S despite all the cleaning we still have a funky mildew smell in the boat, more cleaning in the near future. Need new spark plug for genset, stripped the threads on the last one while working on engine. Overcast skies tonight but still hot. No breeze but the electric fans are working. Time zone change here.

Saturday, November 23, 2013.

We an uneventful sail with a nice following wind over to San Blas. Both Mark and I caught nice dorados for the BBQ. Dropped anchor in Mantananchen bay and dropped the hook just at sunset about half a mile from shore in order to avoid the bugs, but I guess it wasn’t far enough so we moved out another quarter mile after we started to get bit by no-seeums.

Just after breakfast we and mark and Cathy took the dinks ashore and went into town after flagging down a cab. There were a few mosquitoes alongside the road but not bad. Far fewer Mexican tourist her now as the summer, the hot and wet season is just ending. 

It was very hot in town and one local Mexican who spoke a bit of English said that it was hot and shouldn’t be this hot now. And hot it was we and especially Jan was just dyeing. We stuck to the shade whenever we could. We did a quick shop, had lunch and a few beers in an open air restaurant alongside the square then hailed a cab to get back to the boat for a swim. 

The following day was just awesome as we took a panga up through the mangroves, saw birds and crocs, on almost 10 feet long, really cool. Stopped for a beer and a swim in a natural spring than went back to the beach where we spent the afternoon knocking back coronas and garlic prawns while listening to a Mexican band. We swam some more, went back to the boat, swan some more and cooked the fish, the dorado we caught sailing down here on the BBQ and now it’s time to eat it…. then have a swim and a shower before bed. Not as hot today as it has been but it’s pretty warm in the boat tonight as there is only a light breeze. Jan and I both slept well last night and I think we will both sleep the dead tonight. Departing early in the morning for PV, should be there by end of Sunday.

Love to all Andy & Jan

.

Thursday, November-21-13

Isla Isabel. there is some overlap with our last post so no… its not a deja vue thing!

We had an awesome night sail down from Mazatlán Isla Isabela that lay about 90 miles to the south east of us. We had 10 to 15 knots of wind from the stern and a nearly a full moon rising directly off our bow. I set the pole on the headsail and vanged the main boom to the rail so we had a nice sail running wing and wing. Didn’t set any speed records but we managed to average between four and five knots. Mark and Cathy from Sweet Chariot sailed along with us most of the night. Mark doesn’t have a pole for his headsail so he had to sail a zigzag pattern in an effort to keep his sails full. This course just left him frustrated so by about midnight he dropped all sails and motored a direct course for the rest of the night so we soon lost sight of his lights.

We spotted the island just as day broke, we were still ca couple of hours out so I decided to put down the fishing gear. As luck would have it, I nailed something, and it was big. I played it for half an hour before losing it. I never saw what it was… big tuna maybe.

We anchored in what I began to call out “usual spot” in the more protected south bay. (this was our fourth time here in the past year) The bottom is rocky and can foul your anchor but I’m not worried as I have my diving gear aboard and I think I know this bottom well as we lost and anchor here last year and Jan and I spent the better part of the day diving trying to locate it, which we eventually did.

There we some local fisherman camped on the beach in shacks and half a dozen seiners anchored nearby, one of which Mark and I visited and bought some fresh prawns. Went ashore and climbed “lighthouse hill” with Mark and took some pics, awesome view. We wanted an early night as we were just bagged from the grueling sail from Mazatlán. Not really but sounds good don’t it? But we had a social engagement with our friends. We played dominos with Kathy and Mark and two other cruisers aboard Sweet Chariot.  Good night but it was all over by 9pm so I fired up the generator and we watched a movie and had popcorn.

Woke up to a heavy thunder shower that lasted for about an hour, no wind just lots of rain. All bluster no bight. Another beautiful day so Mark, Kathy and I snorkeled on the reef after which I went spear fishing, got a little Cabra and one lobster. Had lobster salad for dinner last night. We also hiked up the volcano and over to the far side to see the Boobies. Not as many as last time as it’s still early in the season. But lots of Frigate Birds but they are not nesting much either. We decided that we would be moving on to san Blas in a day or so as Jan did not sleep well again, anchorage is a bit rolly, hopeful  San Blas will be calmer, will stay there for a few days so she can rest up.